For years, shaving brands convinced guys that more blades meant a better shave. Three blades became four, four became five and suddenly your razor looked more like a tiny piece of machinery than a grooming tool. But plenty of guys are now going the other direction and rediscovering the humble safety razor. One sharp blade, a little technique and considerably less drag across your face can mean a closer, calmer shave—especially if you’re prone to razor burn, ingrown hairs or irritation. As one barber told us recently, stacking multiple blades can actually cut hair below the skin line, which often encourages those pesky ingrowns.

There’s also something appealing about the ritual itself. A safety razor forces you to slow down a little: warm water, proper shave cream, short strokes and a light touch. You’re not scraping your face as quickly as possible before running out the door. And once you get the hang of it, the economics are hard to ignore. Standard double-edge blades typically cost a fraction of proprietary cartridge refills, while a well-made metal razor can last for decades.

The catch is that not all safety razors feel the same in your hand or against your scruff. Weight, grip, blade exposure and angle can make one feel wonderfully intuitive and another downright intimidating. At the entry level, you’re getting a classic, straightforward tool. Spend a little more and heft and ergonomics start doing more of the work for you. At the top end, precision machining takes some of the guesswork out of technique altogether. Here’s what you actually gain as you move up.