Cargo pants have been pulled in so many directions over the years (from oversized and distressed to skinny to technical), that it’s easy to forget how good the original formula was. During World War II, the U.S. Army replaced its blue denim work uniforms with olive-drab garments cut from rugged cotton herringbone twill, better known as HBT. By late 1942, the trousers had evolved into a roomier, higher-rise design with oversized hip pockets, giving soldiers greater freedom of movement and someplace practical to stash gear. They were work pants in the most literal sense: tough, comfortable and designed without a wasted detail.

Maybe that’s why they still look so good today. The subtle zigzag texture of fabric gives the pants more character than ordinary chino cloth, while the big patch cargo pockets break up the silhouette without turning the pants into tactical cosplay. And unlike the trim cargos that dominated menswear not too long ago, these are supposed to have some volume. A relaxed seat, fuller thigh and straight leg are part of the appeal.

And while collectors are willing to pay top dollar (or dig through a military surplus bin), you don’t have to. Brands are revisiting the original HBT cargo with varying degrees of historical fidelity, from inexpensive interpretations that simply nail the silhouette to painstaking reproductions built almost exactly like the wartime originals. Pair them with a heavyweight tee and canvas sneakers, an oxford and loafers or a denim jacket and boots. We compared a few versions to find out what you get at each price point.