Simply styled to be both legible and tough, field watches were introduced in the 1940s as standard-issue timekeepers for soldiers during World War II. The formula was deliberately utilitarian: high-contrast white numerals against a dark dial, an inner 24-hour scale for military time and a compact case that wouldn’t get in the way. There was nothing decorative about them. They were tools, built to tell the time quickly, reliably and under less-than-ideal conditions.

Which is exactly why they still look so good today. Really, they’re still one of the most versatile watches a guy can own. A field watch feels completely natural with fatigues and boots, but it works just as well with an oxford shirt, chinos and loafers. The smaller cases and straightforward dials also feel especially refreshing at a time when plenty of watches still seem determined to make themselves noticed.

Of course, that simplicity leaves nowhere for shortcuts to hide. At the entry level, you’re paying for durability and classic military styling. Spend more and you start getting mechanical movements, better materials and genuine watchmaking heritage. Go all the way and the humble field watch becomes a luxury object. Still restrained and rugged, just executed with obsessive precision. We compared a handful of versions to see exactly what you get as you move up.