Do you know the “shammy” shirt? A genuine workwear icon, the shirts occupy a sweet spot between a flannel shirt and a lightweight jacket. Made from heavyweight cotton that’s brushed for softness, chamois cloth has a dense, almost suede-like hand that makes it warmer and more substantial than your average button-down. It was originally prized as hard-wearing outdoor gear, but these days it works just as well over a tee, under a coat or buttoned up on its own.

That versatility is what makes it such a useful fall layer. A good chamois shirt has enough structure to stand in for a light jacket on crisp afternoons, but it’s still soft and breathable enough to wear indoors without feeling bundled up. And unlike a plaid flannel, which can read overtly outdoorsy, a solid chamois shirt feels cleaner and a little more grown-up. Think of it as the shirt you reach for when a tee isn’t enough but a jacket feels like too much.

The differences come down to fabric weight, finishing and how refined you want the silhouette to feel. L.L.Bean, the originator of the shirt, gives you a classic heritage version for under $100. But if you’re looking for something a little more polished and design-forward, there are more modern options. Here’s what you actually gain as you spend more.